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Что-то сучилось. Попробуйте еще раз.
Top down approach to unsticking piston rings on the infamous 1ZZ-FE engine using Seafoam. Here's the "bottom up" approach: 🤍youtu.be/Q5kEbu7lXG8 Here's the compression test: 🤍youtu.be/T6yeIOL8ifE Here's the Marvel Mystery Oil test: 🤍youtu.be/ZJ023-Wk0OQ 🤍seafoamworks.com/stop-the-smoke-cures-for-burning-oil/
You pretty much nailed everything I was going to touch on. Root of the deal (and you probably know this, but for those that don't), this is unfortunately a well-documented case with this and a few other Toyota 4 cylinders that ended up in a lot of cars, which was completely a manufacture 'defect', aka design mistake. The low tension rings will close up on the pistons after a time and there's almost no getting around it if you're just using regular oil (to include full snyths), even with preventative early changes. Problem being that you have to add concentrated solvents to keep them from sticking, at which point, you're destroying the lubricative properties of the oil and doing more harm than good for the rest of the engine. Toyota did fix it eventually, I forget exactly when, but memory tells me the mid 2010s (like 2014/15 model years).
Seafoam is about the safest option as it is a concentrated solvent but won't do *as much thinning of your oil, but it isn't a one time application solution either. You can do it initially a few weeks before a total oil change and maintain treatments going forward, but it won't completely solve the problem either, more or less a band-aid. That's not a ding on you or other users, it's totally on Toyota.
You could let acetone sit as you did, and it will certainly slip right past the rings and into the oil pan given enough time without air to evaporate into. If you're planning on doing an oil change right after, there's not much to harm other than residual acetone now in the oil system necessitating a full flush. Personally I wouldn't use acetone, though if you have access to industrial chems, hexane is an option mixed with naptha and toluene. None of the three are particularly pleasant to be around and are extremely volatile.
In the event you were curious or didn't know, most dipstick markings on all gas-driven vehicles indicate one quart low between the dots or hash marks. Diesel's don't exactly follow the same protocol due to how much oil sits in the pan and variance between manufacturers and models, but the general rule is 'at least one quart'.
Put some lucas oil treatment in there or some engine restore. I had same issue in a old grand caravan it worked wonderfully.
Seafoam may un-stick rings, but if the rings are worn out don't expect much.
Did you really put those old spark plugs back in there?? Think it’s been a great time to put some new ones in there.
A quart
aquarium in 300mi, better unload that puppy,or at least I would,good luck!!!
Might try this on my Toyota 2az-fe engine.....
Very informative and not rushed, thank you! A thing I would suggest to make it easier to find middle on the cylinder (between top and bottom dead center), use two sticks instead of 1 - put them in opposite position cylinders (e.g. 1 in the 1 or 4 cylinder, and 1 in the 2 or 3 cylinder). Then rotate crankbolt clockwise until the two sticks are level - that will be your center
I know you have many episodes in this. How many times have you done a piston soak? As bad as yours are, I would imagine you're going to have to do 3 or 4 to unstick the rings.
I have 2 Toyotas that I'm about to do this to. They only burn about 1 quart per 2,000 miles so I'm hoping 1 soak will do the trick.
I have a 12 Ford Escape and have oil residue inside the sparkplug holes. Will putting seafoam clean that out or is that a bigger problem?
why dont you just use motor flush? Thats what its for. Its a kerosene type product, a (solvent) you poor in with your old oil you are about to drain except you idle the engine for about ten or fifteen minutes to get it circulated many times through. It chemically cuts everything in there. Then you drain and fill like normal. I have seen old guys do it with actual kerosene too. a quart. The old oil makes the flashpoint a non-issue. lots of brands of motor flush out there but they are mostly just kerosene marketed as flush.
Dear Dave,
Hope this comments reach you in good health.
Question. How about doing the very same experiment using Carburetor chock cleaner instead if B12? Have you thought about it? Do you recommend me to experiment it on my car? Thank you
change the oil to castrol 5w 30 you will burn less oil
Look i left a thumbs up but wtf you mean if it helped and didn’t help much. ? You have to understand that cleaning out an engine takes a few passes. And old cars are gonna burn oil. If I drew you a graft of the oil consumption til engine failure that point just got a lot further away. It wad a very successful experiment, i was surprised and i think it wad very good work on your part.
Dump some pure white vinegar an let it set for 24 to 72 hours an more white vinegar as you go once 72 hrs are up flush engine oil change filter
You could take off the oil pan, pull the plugs, and spray carb cleaner, finish off with soaking in Hoppes #9, then reassemble and spray some oil onto the cylinder walls, let it sit overnight to not burn oil.
Always remember to let your vehicle sit unrunning awhile before reading the dipstck. Some vehicles need much longer than others. My Dodge Caravan needs overnight, otherwise I'll over fill it easily and quickly.
High mileage oils use solvents to soften seals, and if ran too long you'll be leaking from all seals.
You sure love seafoam
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